Don’t let the face filters and airbrushed celebrity photos fool you. Skin has texture. Some areas have darker pigments, such as around the eyes. Some areas are puffy, wrinkled, freckled, beauty-marked, or bumpy. It’s all natural and normal. But some blemishes could be uncomfortable and indicators of a medical problem, such as severe acne and dry skin. Because of the skewed idea that skin must look smooth and untextured, it’s easy to confuse normal attributes for unhealthy ones. Take sebaceous filaments. They may look like tiny blackheads, but they play an important role in skin welfare.

What are sebaceous filaments?

You may have noticed a sprinkling of dots across your face, especially around the nose, cheeks, chin, and forehead. But don’t mistake them for clogged poors or blackheads. They are most likely sebaceous filaments, tube-like structures within pores, and they shouldn’t get picked on.

“Although sebaceous filaments may look a lot like blackheads, they are usually tanner or grayer in color unlike blackheads, and serve an important purpose, meaning you should leave them alone!” said Dr. Dendy Engelman, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. “Sebaceous filaments are a natural part of your skin and provide an important service by moving oil from the sebaceous glands to the surface, helping your skin to stay hydrated and protect itself from damage.”

Sebaceous filaments or blackheads

They are two very different things. “A pimple is caused by bacteria or fungus, and is usually a fleshy bump that can have a white or black top, hence the term whitehead or blackhead,” said Dr. Purvisha Patel, a board-certified dermatologis, to Skin Wellness Dermatology. “A sebaceous filament is just oil and keratin — no bacteria. They are not harmful.” Although they may not look pretty, they don’t necessarily warrant a trip to the dermatologist the way chronic acne would.

Who gets sebaceous filaments?

Everyone has them, but they are noticable on some individuals more than others. Like with many aspects of skin health, genetics and age are big factors. For instance, people with thicker hair follicles may have more visible filaments. Additionally, the glands grow larger and more noticeable during puberty. And, as the skin sags and loosens with age, the pores can enlarge and make the filaments more prominent. 

One factor within your control is skin maintenance, says Cleveland Clinic. Dry skin from too much sun exposure or excess washing can lead to bigger sebaceous glands as they work harder to rehydrate the skin. 

Should you remove sebaceous filaments?

You may have seen advice circulating on how to pull out sebaceous filaments. But although the videos may look satisfying (and a little gross), they shouldn’t be replicated, according to many skincare experts. For one, these thread-like glands are vital for natural lubrication to keep the skin moisturised and soft. 

Additionally, they won’t stay gone for very long. The follicle will fill up with sebum within a month, and look the same as before. A better treatment is a cleanser that will reduce the size of the pores, although it won’t make them disappear from view. 

Creating skin damage

Moreover, squeezing them can damage the skin and make it look much worse. “Using too much pressure can traumatize the outer skin layer, leading to breakages, scabs, or even infections,” said Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. Other resulting issues include redness, inflammation, hyperpigmentation, pimples, and scarring. So avoid poking and pinching, see a professional if you want them removed.

What about “skin gritting”?

Recently, beauty influencers are promoting a trend known as “skin gritting” that supposedly eliminates sebaceous filaments. The process involves softening the skin with an oil cleanser, using an acid exfoliant, applying a clay product with essential oils, and finally. massaging the face for up to 15 minutes with the oil cleaner.

Grit or just excess product?

“While combining an exfoliating acid, a purifying mask, and an oil will give you a deeper clean by pulling out pore-clogging material, much of the blackheads and gunk that you feel are likely excess product that you just applied,” said Dr. Engelman. Additionally, this practice over time can make skin look looser and pores look bigger.

How to clean sebaceous filaments

Remember, sebaceous filaments are natural and healthy. Although influencers on social media may promise gimmicks for perfectly untextured skin, it’s not the reality. Instead of trying to make your skin look “perfect,” focus on making it healthy. 

And fortunately, you can create a skincare routine that minimizes this feature. Look for products with ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids, oil-absorbing clay, retinol, salicylic acid, sulfur, and vitamin E. Similarly, avoid ingredients that can clog pores, like petroleum, coconut oil, shea butter, and tea tree oil. Keep your face-washing routine simple; more is not always better. Introduce new products slowly so you can ensure it’s truly helping your skin and not making things worse.